David Toutain, the prodigal son who worked under Loiseau, Passard, Veyrat and Aduriz... was expected to create a restaurant of his own. At the very conceptual Agape Substance, his intellectual cuisine, his maxi-minimalism and his creativity blew everyone away. At his place, the "gastronaute" plays a more muted tone. Airy, almost severe decor (wood, concrete, grey ceramics), servers in ties and...A silent menu! Everything begins on a blank page - a massive wooden table that is dressed piece by piece: napkins, glasses, stones, bowls, terra cotta... Inventive compositions follow one another, taking calculated risks, little bursts, sparkling or soft, with muffled flavors: salsify and white chocolate; corn, a soft-boiled egg and cumin; foie gras, poultry offal confit and green apples; an oyster, foie gras, Brussels sprouts in a hot potato consomme; cod with a squash and sea urchin puree; supreme de volaille, razor clams, cream of garlic and mint oil; coconut and white chocolate ice cream...All the way to this "top...Inambourissime" dessert: Jerusalem artichoke confit, ice cream, crispy skin and praline made from the root vegetable. A good (and expensive) wine list that's rather natural and a little Spanish - Pouilly-Fume from Pabiot, Priorat Mas Igneus, €50 the bottle... Wines by the glass €8-12 - white Languedoc Le Conte des Floris, red Mas Gabriel..."Petit" menu at €55 (lunch except school vacations and national holidays), menu tested at €80 and not tested...At €110 (€180 with food and wine pairings). // Y.N.
Address 29 rue Surcouf, 75007 Paris France
Phone +33 1 45 50 11 10
Maps 8FW4V865+3V Open Maps